Day 8; Saturday, June 5th, 1999
Start: Alaska Ferry; 2nd Day
End: Alaska Ferry
0 Motorcycle Miles
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Morning on back deck |
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Morning in Solarium |
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Around 3:45 AM, I wake up out of habit
(it's
7:45 AM back home), to find that it's
dusk
and we're passing a small village.
I find
out later that an older passenger was
sick,
and they dropped him off at the nearest
town.
In the morning, when I officially wake
up,
it's overcast. I look around, and watch
as
some of the young women wake up. Cute
as
buttons last night, they all look equally
rough, cobby, and bleary-eyed in the
morning.
For grins, I check the Aerostich zipper-pull
thermometer on my tank bag... 75F!
Perfect.
Then I head to the cafeteria for breakfast.
Brrrrr! It's 75F under the heat lamps,
but
out in the open on drizzle of the back
deck
it's about 20F cooler!
Incidentally, everybody on the rear
deck
is on an adventure, while nearly everybody
in the front deck observation lounge
is retired.
How so? The back deck is the budget
accommodations
- tents, Thermarests, sleeping bags
tossed
on top of lounge chairs, climbers and
hikers
and bicyclists and tenting families.
An eclectic
group of bohemians!
After breakfast, I gawk at the scenery.
Constantly
changing, clouds close in, then open
up.
The sun comes and goes, and the passages
that we sail through are maybe a half
mile
wide, so you see both shores covered
with
lush growth. So many trees, and so
much greenery.
At 9:30 AM, I take in a lecture in the front
observation lounge given by a US Forest Service
ranger on Alaska - settlement, weather, history,
exploration. The first of many such talks
I'll take in while aboard, it's a great way
to pass some of the time and also learn.
At about 10:00 AM the captain announces
that
we will be doing an open-water crossing
and
that the seas are rough today. From
about
11:30 AM - 2:00 PM (or so) we will
be crossing
open water. Anyone affected by seasickness
should take their Dramamine now. Joe
takes
his Dramamine, and lays down in his
lounge
chair on the back deck.
I skip the Dramamine (who needs it, right?),
and wander about the ship looking at the
scenery. I can't imagine tiring of the views
that pass by... By the way - the ship sails
mostly through the smooth protected waters
of the "Inside Passage", and it's
usually like cruising down the most beautiful
river you can imagine, with scenery that
continually improves as we head north.
Around 11:15 AM I head up to the front observation
lounge to look at rough seas that we’re about
to enter. There’s a couple more announcements
about settling yourself into a "secure
area" for the next 3 hours; I can see
the whitecapped waves ahead, and they look
to be about 10’ high. I figure - this is
going to be great! I take a seat in the front row, consider
myself lucky, and begin to count my blessings.
A little background here - my other
hobby
is whitewater kayaking, and in my kayak
I’ve
run through 15’ waves and jumped off
20’
waterfalls, on purpose, for fun. I
expect
that this is going to be big fun, with
the
ship just slicing through the waves,
and
I want to watch. There’s a huge smile
on
my face as we head out of the protected
area
of the inside passage. I look around
me at
the faces of the retirees. They aren't
smiling
at all; in fact, I think that I'm the
only
happy person in the observation lounge.
The first hour is entertaining, as the ship
rises and falls, with the nose of the ship
going through probably a 20’-30’ range of
travel. As the ship rises and falls, it feels
like a roller coaster..... heavy in my stomach
as we go up, light at the top, and then down
we go, inertia and gravity pressing me into
the seat at the bottom as the nose of the
ship starts upward again. In addition to
this motion, the ship is rolling approximately
20 degrees from vertical to the left and
right. I'm absolutely amazed that a large
ship like this can move around so much; I’d
just expected the ship to sail smoothly through.
As background, the room is creaking and groaning
as the ship bends and flexes..... doors are
slamming..... silverware falls off a shelf
somewhere.... various bits and pieces that
passengers have left on the floor begin to
travel back and forth across the lounge under
the chairs, such as a pop can and some pencils......
and periodically there's a big, heavy THUD! from down in the hold, which sounds exactly
like what my motorcycle might sound like
if the ropes securing it were to break.....
And just to keep our interest, every
now
and again the captain comes on and
warns
about an impending sharp turn, and
tells
us to hang on, and then we have a whole
new
set of dis-orienting feelings as the
ship
rolls abruptly and hard towards the
outside
of the turn.
An aluminum sounding CRUNCH! as somebody smashes that damned rolling
pop can. THUD! My bike, or Joe 's? Which really is better, rope or webbing? THUD! Well, it can only fall over once, right?
After that it should be stable, laying down
there on the floor on it's side leaking acid
and gasoline.... THUD! Damn, I hate that sound!
At the end of two hours, this is all
getting
very old. I need to use the restroom,
have
put it off as long as possible since
it looks
like it's going to be really tough
to walk
down the hall to the restroom. Oh well...
I get up and can hardly stand, every
face
in the observation lounge is turned
towards
me as I stagger out, and start down
the hall
to the restroom, bouncing off the walls
as
I go.
I don't get far. Suddenly, I'm extremely
nauseous; I bolt out a side door. Outside,
I'm afraid to go to the railing for
fear
of falling off the ship, and with my
arms
outstretched for balance I keel over
and
puke on the deck of the ship, plus
a little
on my shoes so they don't feel left
out...
Now I feel much better, pretty good
actually,
and since I still need to use the restroom
I go back inside and continue down
the hall,
still bouncing off the walls as I go.
In the restroom, there's a crowd, it's
packed.
People everywhere, and I find it an
odd coincidence
that all these people have to urinate
at
the same time - then I realize they're
all
sick, the men's room reeks. I use the
puke-splattered
urinal and get out of there.
Now I'm just whipped. I'm not nauseous
anymore,
there's nothing in my belly to make
me sick,
but I'm exhausted. Sitting in my chair
in
the observation lounge, my eyes start
to
close, then waves of nausea sweep over
me
and I'm instantly awake again. Keep
the eyes
open, open... No way can I drift off
to sleep.
At the end of 3 hours, the open water crossing
is finally over. I make my way back to my
lounge chair on the rear deck, humbled, exhausted,
starving and afraid to eat, and lay down.
But not before I look jealously at Joe, half
asleep, laying in his lounge chair with his
hat over his face in a Dramamine induced
stupor.
Then a little later they announce that the
car deck is open for us to access our vehicles
- Joe gets up, and he and I go down to check
our bikes and...... all is well. Whew! As
we walk, we see crew members washing puke
off various parts of the ship....
I eat. Then I take a light nap. Next
open
water crossing is due at 4:30 PM.
At 3:15 PM, I ask Joe for Dramamine - just
in case, to protect my lunch investment.
I have no pride at this point. Joe just smiles
and shares his meds with me. What a friend!
At 4:15 PM, we see our first dolphins.
Saw
our first killer whales at 11:45 AM,
at the
beginning of the first open water crossing.
At 5:15 PM, we're through the second
open-water
crossing, and this one was minor. Whew!!
I relax in my lounge chair in the solarium,
drifting in and out of sleep while
watching
the scenery. The next open water is
due Sunday
morning at 4:00 AM. I slip off to sleep.
Doug Grosjean
Pemberville, Ohio
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