K-Bike Electric Windshield Tech

By: Anton Largiader
August 1998

My notes on installing the electric windshield for the K-RT/LT. Although good instructions are provided, here are some observations for anyone interested in this product.

The upper fairing support bracket is different; this is required because the width of the mechanism will not fit between the original bracket and the fairing. The difference is very small but it’s absolutely significant. It might be possible to modify an old-style bracket to allow this windshield to be used, and newer models probably have the updated bracket even if they have a fixed windshield. The visible difference is that there is a threaded boss for the relay to mount (on the left side) and the upper mounting ears are relieved to allow the mechanism to fit between the bracket and the fairing upper. The bottom line is that the fairing needs to come off if you do not have the correct bracket, although we did not remove the mirrors and the lowers as called for in the instructions. The instrument pod mounting changes, to move the pod rearwards about 1/4″. This involves a spacer plate and a counterweight, which replaces the rear cover of the existing pod mount. There is less room for cables to run between the pod and the dash pad; in fact you will probably find that the pod rubs against the pad.

The power is fed from the “additional equipment” plug in the relay box. The wiring harness for the shield plugs right in and provides a new plug on a pigtail so that other equipment can still be attached. Power comes in from three different circuits: one feeds the controls, one powers the map light, and the the last ( fuse 5, the “additional equipment” fuse) provides power to the actual motor. You may need to add this fuse or the windshield won’t work! DAMHIK. On my bike, the pin to feed the map light was in the wrong position, so I added a jumper on the new “additional equipment” plug to divert power back into the correct wire on the electric windshield harness.

Installation time was about three hours, but if you already have the updated bracket the time will be much less. The complete kit included:

• Wiring harness and switch
• Upper fairing support bracket
• Revised inner fairing liner (and speaker mounting rings)
• Mounting screws (six for the liner, eight for the windshield base, one for the relay, possibly others)
• Replacement blind nuts for mounting to the fairing (different type)
• Activation mechanism (heavy, mounted on fiberglass base)
• Clear windshield panel and mounting hardware
• Counterweight, bolts and spacers for relocating instrument pod.

Take-off parts (old) will be:

• Upper fairing support bracket
• Inner fairing liner
• Rear cover for instrument pod
• Instrument pod mounting bolts (I think)
• Crossbar (under old windshield)
• Old windshield and mounting hardware