K-Bike Stand
By: Don Eilenberger
September 1997
First some ascii art work.. then an explanation and the attached photos.. (FAQ follows):
My K-Bike Stand (with thanks to T-Cora for the inspiration):
<-----------------------48"-----------------------------> -------------------------------------------------------- --- | X //////////////////////////////////////////////// X | <- 4x4 ^ -------------------------------------------------------- | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | 24" | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | | | |///| |///| | v -------------------------------------------------------- ---
The basic construction is a piece of 1/2″ plywood 3’x2′ with 4×4 pieces attached to it from underneath using 3″ galvanized decking screws. The spacing of the two parallel 4×4 members is such that your front tire can just fit between them (in my case 4.5″ apart). You can build this from one scrap of plywood and 1 8′ 4×4 and two large “eye” rings/bolts. The EYE rings/bolts are mounted to the crossmember 4×4 by counterdrilling a hole from underneath large enough for their nut and washer. I used 3/8″ EYE bolts with 3″ of threaded shaft (I would not use wood-screw based ones). ( “X” in the ascii-art = the EYE bolts.. )
To use it – I placed the front wheel of the K into the space between the two parallel members and used tiedowns to hold it down while lifting the bike with a jack under the engine.
DETAILS on how *I* used this stand (see disclaimer at end):
- I put the bike in the stand: To get the front wheel into the stand – while on the centerstand, I had someone push down on the rear of the bike lifting the front wheel about 1″. I could then push the stand under the front wheel.
- I tied down the bike: Using suitable tie-downs, attach them to the bottom of your triple tree (at least on the RT and RS) and the EYE bolts in the stand. I had someone stronger than me pull them down, alternating from side to side, until the bike suspension is *almost* bottomed out.
- I lifted the bike: Using a suitable jack (I have a 2-ton garage hydraulic jack) under the rear portion of the engine (I’d also used a block of wood to protect against metal to metal contact) – I lifted the bike.
It *did* feel unstable at one point during the lifting – in my case it started lifting the front end (and the stand). At a certain point – the weight transferred to the front wheel, the stand returned to contact with the floor – and the bike felt VERY stable. I **STRONGLY** liked that during the lifting and lowering of the bike – I had at least two people available to help steady it.
If all this sounds like a chore – once we did it and realized how steady it was, it was a snap to raise and lower the bike using the floor jack. A scissors jack may be a suitable and lower cost alternative to the hydraulic floor jack.
If I didn’t use my hydraulic floor jack I would want to make very sure that what I did use has a stable base/design and was rated for well over the weight of the bike.
======================================================================= LEGAL DISCLAIMER - what I did worked for me. You may be a klutz and kill yourself if you try this. If so - it's your fault not mine. I just told you what worked for me.. I did *NOT* tell you to do it, nor do I encourage you to. If you do this it's your problem if you hurt or kill yourself or anyone else or break your bike or nuclear war starts. So there. Jeeze - lawyers! =======================================================================
Photos attached:
bike-stand1.jpg and bike-stand2.jpg show the stand with the K100RT in it..
not lifted in bike-stand1, and lifted in bike-stand2.
