Note: While this article addresses UNGO alarms, the sensor feature and the discussion of its benefits can be used when reviewing any alarm. And the most important point is that will it survive a motorcycle environment!At 08:33 PM 11/10/97 -0600, Geoff Adams wrote:
> Now, tell me about your Ungo alarm. What features do you have
and did you
> do the installation yourself? I'm considering purchasing one.
I have two UNGO alarms. One in each bike. (And if one bike gets totaled, it will move.) I got them before UNGO was purchased by Clarion. I got them before I got to know one of the owners well. (Where my bike is parked.) I believe the product is still basically the same. You should be able to find them at someone in the Security business, carrying Clarion, that handles them.
The critical item in any alarm system is the "sensor". Some systems use mercury switches. This is very basic. It depends on you parking the bike the same way all the time. They are rugged. Another popular sensor is a "shock" sensor. They use a small mass on a column. The column is frequently a crystal or ceramic. The shock moves the mass and generates the signal on the column. The rub is that in a high vibration environment tends to break the column. :(:( So the sensor is dead. Some other systems us a metal mass (iron washer) suspended by elastic members (rubber bands). You should be able to figure out the effect of heat and vibration on elastic members. :(:(
The UNGO sensor is a wire coil surrounding a puddle of mercury inside a glass tube. The coil is part of an oscillator circuit. If the puddle moves it disturbs the oscillator frequency and amplitude. This is monitored and the siren/horn goes off if the set levels are exceeded. The sensitivity level can be set both by a potentiometer, and by the transmitter. The sensitivity is very stable.
It can be set up to use the bike's horn or a siren. (I like the siren buried in the plastic work.) The turn signals also flash. It will reset after a few minutes. (So the battery is not drained and people will not beat your bike trying to get it to shut off.) It lets you know it was disturbed when you disarm the system by the way it chirps. When it is triggered the start circuit is opened. The bike is not startable. You do not want the FI or ignition circuit opened. Think of loosing motive power on a sharp bump in a turn. :(:(:( If you try to start the bike when it is armed, it will go off. This is loud, and embarrassing. %)%)%)
It can be set to arm every time you turn the bike off, or just by using the remote control.
It may be able to use a pager, I can't remember. Pagers have their own limitations which I won't go into. (They will not reach you "anywhere". They are very range limited.)
There are systems, or add-ons, that use microwaves to detect someone close to it. They are very touchy to set up. Plus do you want it going off when someone walks by? (See beating the bike above.)
One of mine has been in for at least 60K miles. The other for ~36K miles. No failures. Mike Dulaney had lost the sensitivity potentiometer off the board (Neither Mike nor UNGO knows why, very weird.) and got it fixed for a very low amount. ~$35 I think. Mick McKinnon loves his.
They are still made at the facility mine was made at. The remotes have a different shape. If you can find an old one, you can get it serviced and manuals for it, no problem.
Yes, you can put it in. I put the brain in the underseat box. The motion sensor went there too. It hooks up to the connections in the electrical box under the tank.
I rank it right up there with Fuel Plus. Very rugged. Works
well. Well supported.
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