K-Bike Stand

K-Bike Stand

From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@verizon.net

first some ascii art work.. then an explaination and the attached photos.. (FAQ follows):

My K-Bike Stand (with thanks to T-Cora for the inspiration):


 --------------------------------------------------------              ---
 | X //////////////////////////////////////////////// X | <- 4x4  	^
 --------------------------------------------------------		|      
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|      
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|      
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |	       24"
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |		|     
 |			|///|    |///|		        |	        v    
 ----------------------------------------------------------	       ---

The basic construction is a piece of 1/2" plywood 3'x2' with 4x4 pieces attached to it from underneath using 3" galvanized decking screws. The spacing of the two parallel 4x4 members is such that your front tire can just fit between them (in my case 4.5" apart). You can build this from one scrap of plywood and 1 8' 4x4 and two large "eye" rings/bolts. The EYE rings/bolts are mounted to the crossmember 4x4 by counterdrilling a hole from underneath large enough for their nut and washer. I used 3/8" EYE bolts with 3" of threaded shaft (I would not use wood-screw based ones). ( "X" in the ascii-art = the EYE bolts.. )

To use it - I placed the front wheel of the K into the space between the two parallel members and used tiedowns to hold it down while lifting the bike with a jack under the engine.

DETAILS on how *I* used this stand (see disclaimer at end):

1. I put the bike in the stand: To get the front wheel into the stand - while on the centerstand, I had someone push down on the rear of the bike lifting the front wheel about 1". I could then push the stand under the front wheel.

2. I tied down the bike: Using suitable tie-downs, attach them to the bottom of your triple tree (at least on the RT and RS) and the EYE bolts in the stand. I had someone stronger than me pull them down, alternating from side to side, until the bike suspension is *almost* bottomed out.

3. I lifted the bike: Using a suitable jack (I have a 2-ton garage hydraulic jack) under the rear portion of the engine (I'd also used a block of wood to protect against metal to metal contact) - I lifted the bike.

It *did* feel unstable at one point during the lifting - in my case it started lifting the front end (and the stand). At a certain point - the weight transferred to the front wheel, the stand returned to contact with the floor - and the bike felt VERY stable. I **STRONGLY** liked that during the lifting and lowering of the bike - I had at least two people available to help steady it.

If all this sounds like a chore - once we did it and realized how steady it was, it was a snap to raise and lower the bike using the floor jack. A sissors jack may be a suitable and lower cost alternative to the hydraulic floor jack.

If I didn't use my hydraulic floor jack I would want to make very sure that what I did use has a stable base/design and was rated for well over the weight of the bike.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER - what I did worked for me. You may be a klutz and
kill yourself if you try this. If so - it's your fault not mine. I
just told you what worked for me.. I did *NOT* tell you to do it, nor 
do I encourage you to. If you do this it's your problem if you hurt or 
kill yourself or anyone else or break your bike or nuclear war starts. 

So there. Jeeze - lawyers!
Photos attached:

Kstand1.jpg and Kstand2.jpg show the stand with the K100RT in it..
not lifted in kstand1, and lifted in kstand2.

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Last Update: Monday, September 18, 2005