K1100 Steering Bearing Removal
By Garry Campbell
What you will need to make, have or find;
- 1 large steel flat washer 76mm OD X 35mm ID (3" OD X 1 3/8" ID)
- 2 Flat type "C" clips (one as spare only) 30mm ID (1 3/16")
- Good wire cutters (for cutting bearing cage)
- 2 legged adjustable gear puller with a reach of 185mm (7")
- 1 tube type socket or solid bar with an OD no greater than 27 1/2mm (13/32")
- 1 tube type socket or strong walled pipe with an I.D of about 22mm (7/8") and a depth of no less than 38mm (1 1/2"). If using pipe you will need something to cap one end.
- Electrical tape for thread protection while working on lower triple clamp.
Note: Both sockets are only used in conjunction with gear puller so anything that is strong enough and resembles a socket will suffice.
Steps to take presuming you have the triple clamp removed from your machine;
Removal of bearing inner cone from knurled nut:
Removal of bearing inner cone from bottom triple clamp:
- Wash grease from old bearings so you have something clean to work with.
- Wrap electrical tape around fine thread on shaft to prevent damage.
- Cut bearing cages away with wire cutters.
- Take knurled nut in your hot little hand and place the large steel flat washer over bearing proper.
- Assuming the washer has dropped down far enough, place the "C" clip in front of the washer and behind the lip on the bearing proper.
- Place the socket or solid bar in the center of the bearing.
- Using the gear puller with short leg setting, place the center bolt of the puller on the socket or solid bar and the hooks behind the large steel flat washer then begin to apply pressure.
- Extend legs on gear puller to enable it to reach from the top of the shaft to the bearing to be removed.
- Place the large steel flat washer and "C" Clip on bearing proper as done previously.
- Place the socket or strong walled pipe over the threaded end of the shaft so it rests on the section of shaft where it steps to the larger size.
- Place the puller over the shaft with center bolt resting on the socket or strong walled pipe and the hooks behind the washer as described before then begin to apply pressure.
Note: For stubborn bearings gentle heat may be required to get them moving but to date I haven't had to resort to that method.
Removal of bearing outer cones from frame:
The bottom one can be easily removed by placing a drift down through the neck until it makes contact with the edge of the cone. Using gentle taps work your way around the cone to ensure it slides out evenly.
On the K1100 the top one is a little more difficult as there is no edge to make contact with the drift, if you take a close look you will see there is a small groove below the bottom of the cone.
In my tool kit I found I had a rod with a small washer welded on one end, by placing the rod up though the bottom, the washer fitted nicely into the groove and I was able to gently tap the cone out, again working my way around to ensure it came out evenly.
A slide hammer with an end small enough to fit into the groove should also do the trick.
The new bearing can be tapped into place on the knurled nut by using a socket or tube the correct size to fit on the inner cone., on the bottom triple clamp you will need a strong walled pipe just large enough to slide over the shaft and make contact with the inner cone of the bearing.
Note: Ensure all tools are clean and free from grit when you start working with the new bearings.