I plan to replace the coolant. Is there any easier way that requires fewer fuel tank removals?
From: "Diaz Jon" <Diaz_Jon@macmail1.swindon.rtsg.mot.com>
Yes, drain the system down at the water pump (don't forget the new crush washer) and pull the gas tank back so you can remove the radiator cap. Do not lose the rubber gasket inside the radiator cap....funny/embarrassing story I'll review another day. Let the system drain for 15-30 minutes, then replace the drain plug, and slowly (trickle) the new coolant into the system, stopping every few minutes to let things settle. You should be able to get most of it in there that way.
Remove the coolant overflow (since you are servicing the battery, you've already removed the bracket holding everything down) bottle and dump the old stuff into your bucket. I fill the bottle to the halfway point between MAX and MIN, and then after that first ride, top the overflow back up to MIN after everything cools off.
Some folks go to the MAX level, and end up having coolant pee
all over them when the bike gets stinky hot (right Joe Senner?),
but I've used the MIN level as my cold setting and never had a
Jonathan Hutchins wrote:
When you're refilling the radiator on the K bike (K100), what's your procedure?
Pull the tank back and to the left as far as it will go. Use a rag (school of hard knocks, here) to protect the tank from the plastic (still hard enough to scratch the paint) bracket on on the inside of the RS fairing.
Fill the radiator and start the engine. When the thermostat opens, the coolant level will drop, so top it off again, put the cap on and put the tank back where it belongs.
Check the overflow to make sure it's up to the "Max" line and go for a
ride. Next morning, check the overflow again. It will have dropped a
little, but not much, so bring it back to Max and you're done.
tom coradeschi <+> email@example.com